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Rome 2023 – EUR’s modernism and a cemetery
Filed under: Travel | Tags: Antonio Gramsci, Cemitero Acattolico, EUR Rome, Mussolini, Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana
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EUR was Mussolini’s attempt in Rome at building a (new) Rome at scale using 20th century materials and techniques. And by goodness, the results are impressive. The neighbourhood is reached on Line B of the metro system. The Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana (left) is visible directly from the metro station, EUR Magliana. It is as striking as anything in the old city. It stands in a fenced-off space with very little in the way of greenery. Like much of Rome, wildlife does not easily cohabit the space with humans. Feral cats do – also not good for birds and small mammals. Unfortunately the building is not open to visitors. Through the entrance door, one can see a big Fendi sign which suggests how the building’s purpose may have changed.
Don’t stop there, though. The wide avenues are themselves of interest and contrast. The coffee is a good price, too. The owner of such a businesses gave some advice as to where else we should go.
EUR is very much an administrative centre with at least two major offices of state parked there. The Finance Department has a fantastic frieze outside….fantastic in the sense of how it sends a shiver down the spine – Mussolini is depicted as being Mussolini on it. (lRight – first line on a horse).
Mussolini’s legacy is everywhere to be seen in this part of Rome. As much as that of Trajan and Augustus and Nero in the old city.
In the nearby “English” cemetery (Cemitero Acattolico – accessible from Pyramide Metro station) lies one of Mussolini’s greatest critics, and paid the ultimate price for it. Antonio Gramsci resided on the absolute opposite of Mussolini’s vision. Mussolini imprisoned him. And it was in prison where he died after 13 years’ incarceration. But those years were spent writing his so-called notebooks. I read a lot of Gramsci when I was a student of politics (my first degree) and to find his grave was extraordinary. No plan here, but it is what comes from random conversations with unexpected café owners in Mussolini’s new city.
Who else is in this cemetery? Well, Keats is (and his long-term friend, Joseph Severn). He went to Rome to get well (undoubtedly a better climate, but succumbed nonetheless). His tombstone bears the words “HERE LIES ONE WHOSE NAME WAS WRIT IN WATER”. This can be read in a number of ways – fleeting, ripples (when a pebble is thrown into it). He was a poet after all. You’ll find Percy Shelley there, too. What is important though is the tranquility of the space. Whilst it is notionally free to enter, a donation of 5 Euros is advised.
Rome December 2023 – Arrival and first day
Filed under: Travel | Tags: Church of San Marcello al Corso, Palazzo della Consulta, Rome, Villa Carlo Alberto al Quirinale
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26 December 2023: Once again we decided to spend the festive period away from home. Last year it was Naples, this year Rome. Whilst we do not need heat, a bit of less-cold is welcome. And maybe a little sunshine. Getting there by train is pretty straightforward. Munich-Bologna-Rome. I mention Naples because there is an interesting contrast. Many Neapolitans are on the streets on Christmas Day. Romans are not. Having arrived at Roma Termini last night, we found the Metro closed. The taxi queue was extended. We walked successfully for 30 mins to our hotel. But eat before you travel away from Termini as eateries are mostly closed.
We have been to Rome before. The Colosseum still stands and today it was heaving. As was the Pantheon. Long queues for both. But one of the significant beauties of Rome is the free culture available. Most churches are open. All have something interesting to share.
For example, the Church of San Marcello al Corso has recently commissioned some new art work. “Mothers and their Gift of Life” (right) is disconcerting. It is bronze and sculpted by Timothy Paul Schmalz. The woman in question may be Mary, but could be any woman with a baby growing inside her. This one is small (but aren’t they all?). But it is in a dish. I don’t know how to interpret that, but I read it as need and hunger, not the gift of life per se. Very odd.
If there was a theme linking my thinking today, it probably is the depiction of women. Whilst the mother is young and beautiful, there are some grotesques depicted on every building if one just looks up. The example (left) adorns the Palazzo della Consulta opposite the robust statues found in the Piazza del Quirinale.
A little along from there is an unassuming garden (Villa Carlo Alberto al Quirinale). There is a monster statue of King Carlo on his horse, but the sculptures on the plinth are really interesting (right). It is the court of Carlo and, of course, it is exclusively men. If one looks carefully, the women are depicted only as pictures on the wall! On the other side is a lot of men dying in battle. There is a lot of that in Rome. Men dying in battle.
Be informed 