Tandem Tour 2015 – Tauber Altmühl and Main Radwege, Bayern, Germany

DSCF1297This year we decided not to stray too far from our base in Munich. In previous years we have had to negotiate up to 5 trains with the tandem (bicycles are not carried on InterCity trains in Germany) to get to our starting point. This year, the starting point was Regensburg, a relatively quick couple of hours by cycle-friendly regional train.

We are feeling a shade smug this year in that we managed to camp for all but one night, and that was because there were no campsites on that particular stretch. We navigated by means of a Garmin Edge 800 bicycle navigation system (topped up nightly largely by energy generated from our Power Monkey Solar battery pack) and ADFC Reiseführer “Tauber Altmühl Radweg” (Hans Luntz) and Bikeline (Esterbauer), “Main Radeweg”.

Both paths are well signposted taking in both designated cycle track and minor roads. That said, it is possible to lose the tracks, especially when negotiating the towns. Below are my comments on the campsites. Some, as ever, are better than others!

Altmühl

DSCF1138 Pillhausen (west of Kelheim) Family-run campsite directly on the river. Gasthof serves food until late. Food simple, but effective. Inexpensive (€15). Showers inclusive. One criticism, the owners knowingly admitted a group intending to have an all-night party with amplified music. Sleep was a challenge.
This is really a mobile home parking facility. But there is room for tents, right on the path and adjacent to the river. Very cheap at €8 paid using a ticket machine. Showers, 50 Euro Cent. Recommended. Eichstätt DSCF1156
DSCF1171 Camping Herzog, Gunzenhausen (Altmühl See) Very much purpose-built facility acting as a resort (Altmühl See is a big lake suitable for watersports). €21 per night (all pitches are the same size whether you are a caravan and car or a two-person tent and bicyle). Ground totally unsuitable for tent pegs. Washing machine and dryer. Showers 50 Euro Cent extra. On-site restaurant that was not bad (we enjoyed both the food and the company/clientele).
Rothenburg has two adjacent campsites. This one was the smaller of the two. Relatively cheap (approx €12, showers inclusive). The village has two Gasthofs with alternate closing evenings (Monday and Tuesday). Ignore any sign saying reservations essential. Rothenburg ob der Tauber (Detwang) DSCF1179
DSCF1189 Tauber-bishofsheim Badischer Hof Hotel We took the hotel because this section of the route has no campsites (in our direction of travel). €89 including breakfast – proved good value. Hotel has restaurant, but we went to the nearby Chinese restaurant (Asia Wok) and had a significant veggie meal (tofu, vegetables and noodles) at a fraction of the price. Hotel has garage for secure bicycle storage.
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