Be informed

Rather than go all the way along the Tauber to Wertheim to join the Main, we decided to go direct and take what is known as the Romantic Route linking Werbach just north of Tauberbishofsheim and Würzburg via Alterheim. The route is well signposted (right) but, as a route it is not as well developed as the river routes. Essentially, treat it like a motorway with no services on it. Take food and water because this is not an easy 30km or so. That said, Werbach to Würzburg is easier than the other way around. The gradients are kinder. Not surprisingly, it is also much quieter.

When Würzburg arrives, it is fantastic. The Fortress Marienburg (left) dominates the skyline and the city centre is as architcturally rich as any in the region. Though it is also a working city where the tourists are contained.

The Würzburger Residenz is a UNESCO World Heritage Site originally built between 1720 and 1744. The Rathaus (right) is a 14th Century building, but like the historic centres of many German cities it was severely damaged by allied bombs in 1945 (a firestorm on 16 March 1945 killed 5000 civilians). Fittingly, much of the historic centre was rebuilt. The Cathedral, moreover, has two examples of Riemenschneider’s extraordinary carvings.

We ate well at the Ratskeller before heading to the river and following the Main Radweg to Kitzingen. This takes riders principally through the historic town of Ochsenfurt. Just short of Kinzingen is the excellent riverside campsite. Kinzingen is another picture postcard town, the history of which is closely related to the Church, Würzburg and Napoleon.

Breakfast opportunities are considerable. It is also very cylcle friendly. First of all, if one has an e-bike – of which there are many to be seen on these cycle routes – there is a charging station. But more interestingly, there are secure luggage lockers (left) for cyclists!