Be informed

I’m not much of a train spotter, but walking towards Brussels Midi on 12 May 2013, I could not help noticing a locomotive (left). I trust it is a Class 204 originating from the 1950s. This is as close as I could get, but it looks impressive and powerful.

I note from those who know the following in terms of history: “At the time the TEE (Trans Europe Express) trains were introduced in 1957, the belgian locomotives of the 204 serie (later on 54 serie) have started hauling trains on the Paris-Brussels and Köln-Brussels lines. This is probably were they were given the honorific title of “TEE locomotive”. The belgian SNCB had, with these units, the possibility of concurrencing the foreign trains operating on its network.
Upon arrival of the multi-current electric locomotives on the TEE lines (in 1963/1964), the 204/54 were assigned to local services, passengers and freight, such as Aachen (SNCB/DB) or Montzen (SNCB/NS).

“These units, like the 202 and 203 series (later on 52 and 53 series) were derived from the NOHAB-GM (64.2246) used in Norway. They have been built by AFB (Anglo Franco Belge) at the La Croyère factory (Belgium).

“The 1900 HP engine allowed a maximum speed of 140 km/h. As these machines were initially reserved for passenger trains, they were equipped with a steam boiler to insure the heating of the coaches.”
Source: http://eepshopping.de/index.php?view=program_detail&ID_PROGRAM=2193

Time to venture into the new city across the Golden Horn. We took the tram and then the furnicular to Taksim Square. From there we walked down Istiklal Caddesi – the shopping street that one sees in every large city. Though this one has a vintage tram line down the centre (see left).

Essentially at the end of Istiklal Caddesi one finds the key landmark for this part of the city (short of mosques as it is); namely, the Galata Tower. It dominates the skyline and offers a decent view of the city. My guide says that the entry fee is extortionate.

The area has many side roads with antique shops of the unkempt variety. There are also so examples of wooden houses, many in a state of disrepair, though some are receiving some attention as in this fine example on the left.

We then walked back into the old city across the Galata Bridge which takes the metro and the road. There are some cafes built into the structure; we were hungry so risked one of them. Not really recommended. At the road level, men fish off the bridge.

Once across we found ourselves once again passing through a bazaar of sorts. Literally hundreds of small shops, largely doing textiles and homewares. Astonishing. The up to the Süleymaniye Mosque. Clearly a lot of work has been done on this building. It is stunning both inside and out. It was another feat of engineering comissioned to challenge the magnificence of the Hagia Sofia. I offer a couple of pictures to illustrate the grandeur, but it needs a better snapper of photos than me to capture the true magnificence of the interior particularly.

 The sun came out today prompting us to think that a boat ride along a part of the Bosphorus was a good idea. We walked to Eminoenue where a good number of ferries arrive and depart to and from Harem across on the east side. There we were sold a 90 minute boat ride up the Bosphorus for 20 Lira. The boat turned out not to be quite what we were shown and the timings were interesting to say the least. And it was very very cold, but the views were stunning in the sunshine. We advise, take some food with you onboard and expect some waiting around and no commentary.

By late afternoon we alighted and headed into the spice market. The spice market is colourful, aromatic and non-threatening. We found a cafe where we could get a hot wrap and some tea and then later another service variation on rice pudding. Heavy. We then took the metro back to Sultanahmet to finish thawing out in the hotel after the river experience.

There is a splendid fountain separating the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia. At night it is illuminated green, blue and red. A perfect backdrop for a photograph.

As we walked to a cluster of restaurants we observed a frisky dog visiting a kebab shop, tail wagging, asking for food. The kindly man directed the animal outside where it waited patiently in anticipation. A few pieces were cut from the kebab hanging, as they do, in the window. The pieces were placed in the street on a piece of paper whereupon the dog rejected them!

The Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia dominate this part of the city. They look at one another with 2000 years of built history between them. One is a living mosque, the other a museum having been both a mosque and a church. The Blue Mosque is blue by virtue of the blue tiles that adorn the walls. The dome (left) is vertiginous. However, the mosque is not as blue as the name suggests, but as a place of worship, one is in awe of its scale.

The Hagia Sophia was designated a museum in 1934 by the state’s founder, Ataturk himself. I suspect February is not the best time to visit as it is a naturally dark and cool space. But the scale is incomprehensible and the remnants of the mosaics stunning. There are two levels for visitors – ground level where one finds the alter, and a mezanine where one finds the mosaics coupled with an elevated panorama. The mosaic on the right – the Virgin receiving a model of the new church from Justinianus and the city from Constantine (10th Century).

The columns below are pervasive around the building, but have some beauty in their detail.

The Grand Bazaar is as one would expect. Large, Byzantine (of course) and challenging. However, it is not a Souk similar to what I have experienced in Marakesh, for example. The Grand Bazaar is merely a glorified shopping centre, complete with cash machines for those caught without enough currency. We visitors are always at a disadvantage when it comes to bartering, but we came away with a few items at prices that we can live with. Lots of textiles, leather goods, spices and trinkets. Very busy, of course.

Today the sun shines. Time for a go on the ferries along the Bosphorus.

I’m enjoying a very short sojourn in Istanbul. We are staying in a hotel located in the shadow of the Blue Mosque looking out onto the Mamara Sea into which flows the Bosphorus.The district is called Sultanahmet. It is connected to Taksim Square, another centre of interest, by a modern tramway. Our hotel is the newly-built Magnaura Palace Hotel. Extraordinary place. The breakfast room is on the roof with a fabulous view. Would recommend.

February is optimal in terms of travel and hotel deals, if not the weather. It has rained today and the temperature is around 8 degrees. As one might expect, there are a lot of very friendly people, largely men. The desire to sell is high. There are also large populations of feral dogs and cats.

Eating is very easy for vegetarians. Vegetable casseroles and Kebaps are ubiquitous and come in at about 20 Turkish Lira (about 8 pounds). The wine is excellent. In particular we enjoyed Yakut. We’ve also tried some of the Turkish dark beer, EFES. At 6 per cent proof, it is strong. But it has lots of flavour.

Tipping is expected at 10 per cent. Service is, however, to a very high standard. There are a few well maintained and clean public toilets. Charges were 1 Lira – about 35 UK pence.

Picture – Blue Mosque, Istanbul, 28 February 2012